Arriving at correct bridge location for a Telecaster

[stephen]

After reading David Martin's post re. the E Wave amp he had just bought and the other items to be had from the same seller, out of curiosity, I had a look.......
Noticing that he was advertising some reasonably priced, unfinished Telecaster bodies, I decided to buy one and attempt my second Telecaster self-build, as the first was instantly appropriated by my eldest son and hasn't been seen again!
Anyway, to the point of this. That first guitar had all the holes for the bridge plate pre-drilled. This new one doesn't. Now I do understand how to measure the scale length (25 1/2" obviously for this one) but given the amount of potential back-and-forth travel/adjustment of the Telecaster's saddles, I'm just a bit unsure as to exactly where within this saddle adjustment 'window' I should end the scale length and is it best to have more forward 'compensation' or rearwards from that actual end of 25 1/2" scale length point.

Stephen.

[stephen]

Ah, found it out myself on the American StewMac website......................
For a telecaster bridge, measure 25 3/4" from front edge of nut and that is the centre line for the bridge fixing screws. Everything, scale-wise will then fall into place.............apparently!

Stephen.

[Billyboygretsch]

Let us know if it works

[stephen]

I think it should Bill, as thinking about it, that measurement does seem to make sense. It will allow plenty of 'fore & aft' movement of the saddles for intonation. and easily accommodate the high E string saddle 'hitting 'the 25 1/2" scale length.

My biggest challenge now is to drill the six holes for the thru' body stringing ferrules. I don't have access to a pillar drill, only a drill stand, so I'll be fretting (!) about getting them lined up correctly. I've checked out a few videos on Youtube, but it still appears to be a bit of a challenge. I'd hate to screw it up for want of a pillar drill set-up. Don't know whether discretion should be the better part of valour in this regard and just opt for using the string holes in the back of the bridge, as Fender has used both throughout the years. I honestly don't know how much difference tone-wise it would make and also, whether I'd even notice any difference as I'm a low volume home player. Basically, I'm only trying to produce a guitar that is close to the original spec. Butterscotch blonde, black guard, 3 saddles etc.

Maybe a more experienced Telecaster user can offer their views on the merits of the two stringing methods........

Stephen.

[RUSSET]

I've had both types of bridge stringing types & can't say that I have noticed a great deal of difference. But I tend not to be an anorack about these minor details these days. More important is to get a good set-up done on any guitar, so that each string rings clearly & freely, without fret-buzz etc. The rest is just amplification.
I'm sure there are a few decent luthiers around who have the correct drills to enable drilling 'thru-body' holes, if you really want them. It would be a shame to attempt it yourself & get it wrong.

Tony.

[cockroach]

I find that with the anchoring of strings on the back of the bridge plate, it's easier to change strings!

I am also a bit dubious about the sharp right angle into which the strings are forced with the back load arrangement

(With Strat type units, the ball end of the string also often gets jammed in the holes of the metal block under the bridge. From memory from years ago when I had an old USA Esquire one pickup Tele, the strings also often jammed in the cavities and/or ferrules in the back)

I use a Squier Tele mostly for live work with the strings anchored in holes along the rear edge of the bridge plate, so I'm less fussy about minute tonal differences- much better to have practical quick easy string changing than anorak originality as far as I am concerned.

Mind you, those old genuine Fender type tuners with the split post and the hole in the bottom of the split (to take the sharp end of the string) were also good for quick easy string changes- they only seem to put that type of tuners on basses these days.

[JimN]

...those old genuine Fender type tuners with the split post and the hole in the bottom of the split (to take the sharp end of the string) were also good for quick easy string changes- they only seem to put that type of tuners on basses these days.

Kluson tuners, of course.

The Kluson idea of the split post was used by various other USA guitar makers, including Danelectro and Mosrite, but Fender were the major outlet for the design. When Fender moved to own-brand tuners (initially made in the USA, later made in Germany by Schaller), they kept the split-post idea. Most guitar makers didn't bother with it though. Gibson used Klusons on all their lower-end and standard-range guitars, uyt always just with the single horizontal hole through the shaft. If I recall correctly, the same was true of Rickenbacker.

[stephen]

Well, Tony, John & Jim, I think you've convinced me and saved me from messing up by not being able to accurately drill those 6 ferrule holes in line. As my wife would attest, I can be my own worst enemy in areas such as this, as I hate to admit defeat, but often at my cost!
I was just hoping to achieve the look & build spec of a '52 Telecaster, ferrules and all. Totally agree about strings getting wedged in the block of Stratocasters and the subsequent difficulty in poking them out if you haven't got ready access to a suitable implement.
As for split-post Kluson-style tuners, they've always been my favourite both in ease of stringing- up and looks. A set will also be installed on this Telecaster build. I've never found a problem with them as regards tuning stability. Over the years, I've become quite adept at setting up Stratocasters and not ever traced any tuning glitches to the Klusons as it's nearly always the nut or trem. itself that needs fettling. I've only got one guitar with locking tuners and that's the Sperzels on my Burns Shadows Custom.

Thanks to all for the comments & advice. Most appreciated!

Stephen.

[stephen]

Phew!! Everything seems to line up! Decided to get the bridge position finalised today and that required removing some areas of the rout with my Dremel to give a bit of clearance for the bridge/pickup assembly to square up to the neck. A little filing of the 'guard in the 2 radius areas to match the end of the neck and some serious wood removal on one side of the control cavity was needed. The latter was due to an Orange Drop capacitor on the pre-wired plate being soldered in position at right-angles to the pot, requiring a fair bit more clearance on that side of the cavity. The 'legs' of the capacitor had been cut so short that I didn't feel confident in being able to de-solder and then re-attach vertically.

Anyway, its a pity that I need to spray it, as I quite like the 'Seasick Steve' instrument appearance, with masking tape and just the 2 strings! Now, all that's left is grain filling ; sanding ; sanding sealer ; several coats of Butterscotch Blond ; waiting a couple of weeks ; flatting off ; T-Cutting ; soldering in the Fender Mex pickups : re-installing the hardware and finally setting it up so that it will hopefully play well!

Stephen.

[negninegaw]

Please don't make it butterscotch! That is very ugly and seventies!
The pale see-through colour on the first Shadows LP is the way to go!