Deep ding in guitar

[Detailed Infinity]

Help needed folks. I dropped my Epiphone gloss black 339 yesterday and put a lovely 1/8'' deep dent in the back of the headstock and I'm not happy !!

Now I've repaired car dings on Minis in the past with filler but that was then.

Steam it out (too deep) or fill it but with what?

What can you lot advise?

Bri

ps The colour coat and lacquer hasn't been compromised--just the depression in the wood with those coats following it.

[Detailed Infinity]

Had this from a guy and maybe he's on the right lines. What do you think?


Please don't take this the wrong way - I don't intend any disrespect. If you have to ask what to use, you should probably avoid attempting the repair. A guitar with some years on it is bound to get a ding or two. No big deal. Wear them with pride or if it really bugs you, have a pro fix it.

A mistake made during a finish repair could end up very ugly, very expensive, or both.

[petercreasey]

Had this from a guy and maybe he's on the right lines. What do you think?


Please don't take this the wrong way - I don't intend any disrespect. If you have to ask what to use, you should probably avoid attempting the repair. A guitar with some years on it is bound to get a ding or two. No big deal. Wear them with pride or if it really bugs you, have a pro fix it.

A mistake made during a finish repair could end up very ugly, very expensive, or both.

When an accident like this happens it is very annoying, but they do happen and time will heal the annoyment and the ding will just be part of the guitar's history. I agree with the advice you have had. If you bought the instrument to use continue to use and enjoy it dings etc are a by product of use.If you bought it to look at then have it professionally repaired

[dave robinson]

If it bugs you that much I'd advise finding a pro to fix it, other than that just leave it.

[keithmantle]

Hi Brian, I've repaired small dings in the past using 'Double Duty' clear nail polish by Sally Hansen it has nitrocellulose in it, it might need 2/3 coats

[ecca]

I've tried this once , long time ago and made a right mess of it.
I took it to John Diggins in the end.

[JimN]

Sympathies.

I dinged my ES 175 a year or two back when it toppled after leaning it against a revolving computer chair. Luckily, the guitar was already fairly worn and a repair (in the darker, almost black, part of the sunburst) worked well. A local repairer made a fantastic job of it - I'd defy anyone to spot it.

Similarly, a Fender Jazzmaster I got cheaply had a ding on the edge - in the black area. The same local luthier patched it and flashed it over - you couldn't find without being told it had happened.

So the damage to the headstock of your ES 339 (gloss black) would probably be easy to repair, and I'd estimate the price at around £50 - probably less if you remove the tuners yourself and hand over the instrument ready to work on.

[stephen]

Of all the colours, black (OK I know that black is strictly NOT a colour!) is the easiest to effect a finish repair on. You're also fortunate in that the ding is on the back of the headstock and not the front, so it'll only be you that's ever really looking at any repair when it's being played!

I'm a bit fussy as well, when it comes to having chips, dings, dents etc., on my guitars and the whole relic business, whether artificial or genuine is a bit of an antithesis to me. Some years back, I picked up a used 40th Anniversary 1954 Stratocaster at a music show, which had a few relatively minor dents in the outer, virtually 'black ' areas of its two-tone sunburst finish. Around that time, Gibson were producing some nifty touch-up pens in black, clear, amber and cherry and I was able to borrow a black one from a luthier friend.

Over a period of a few days, I built up the surface of these dents by dabbing (NOT painting) the lacquer into them until it was just proud of the surrounding surface. After allowing several more days for the new lacquer to harden off, I then carefully sanded it flush with the surface using a few of the finer grades of wet or dry abrasives (used wet) wrapped around a small, flat rubber block. I know it gets a bit scary when doing this and you see that milky, matt appearance that the rubbing down produces, but don't panic.....

Carefully 'feather' the edges of the new lacquer into the surrounding finish and then after rinsing off & drying the area, proceed to bring back the shine with polishing compounds. Personally, I've started off with liquid Brasso, then T-Cut before using a swirl remover and finishing with a decent, non-silicone based guitar polish.

I have no experience with using nail polish, but have heard that good results can be obtained. I have though, used those car touch-up pens to good effect. I even reproduced a replica of the artwork of Jimi Hendrix's psychedelic Flying V on my son's no-name V using those pens! I sent a photo and accompanying story of the project into Guitar & Bass magazine, was awarded Star Letter and a fantastic set of Seymour Duncan humbuckers to fit to the guitar!

However, if you don't feel confident in carrying out the above procedures, do heed previous advice and take it to a local repairer.

Good luck with whatever route you choose & let us know and perhaps see, the results.

Stephen.

[Detailed Infinity]

I'm tempted to fill it and air-brush the black and lacquer coats with having feathered then buff. If I make a balls of it then it goes to Electro Music.

Steaming the fibres back won't work as the colour skins are intact


Bri

[George Geddes]

Taking the guitar to a luthier is less embarassing than standing in the supermarket choosing the right shade of nail varnish...

I speak from experience!

George