The ShadowMusic Web Community

I intend to replace the bridge on my Squier Classic Vibe 50's Strat by one of the all steel bridge/trem units advertised on the Internet. Have any members come up against problems which they would advise me to avoid?

One thing that I have already noticed is that there appear to be different spacings of the 6 screws which attach the bridge to the body of the guitar. My guitar is the currently available model. I aready had an old worn, rusty bridge in my spares box, (from a 1980's Squier). When I compared this against the existing bridge, I noticed that the screw holes do not line up.

How many different spacings for the screws are there?

Do the various replacement bridges carry a serial number, or code number, so that customers can be sure of buying the correct size of replacement bridge?

Kind regards,

Chris

The Wilkinson units are good and also cheap (c. £27 posted from http://www.axesrus.com).

All-steel (check the wording before you buy in order to get the right one).

If your guitar has the bridge fixed with six screws, simply measure the distance between the centres of the (outside) two screws in front of the two E strings (in millimetres). Axesrus sell by reference to that measurement.

JN

Hi Chris, I have one of those guitars and can't for the life of me understand why you would want to change the bridge, unless you are replacing it with gold hardware.
I read all of the stuff that people posted about improving these guitar by changing blocks, bridges, pickups etc, but I can't find fault with any of this stuff on mine - and I do have eight other Fender Strats to compare with. Other than a good set up, there's nothing I would recommend to improve what already is a very good instrument.
Much of this 'advice' comes from folks who 'tinker' with guitars rather than play them - thankfully I belong to the latter category.
I fear that you will waste good money and end up with a bodge job in a very important part of the instrument, compromising it's tuning stability.

Eric Johnson bridge

Dave,

The most common reason for changing out an oriental bridge/trem-block for a better-made unit is (as the OP hinted) because of the disadvantages of the base-metal material (particularly the block) from which almost all Asian-made blocks are made.

Whether there's a difference in the sound is a subjective issue - but there's certainly a difference in the way in which a screw-in tremolo arm fits. On the original USA Fenders (eg, the Vintage 1962, which I know we both have), the steel block has a precision-cut thread for the arm, which lasts for many years before wearing. Callaham or Mark Pressling (formerly of Arbiter) provide even more hardwearing precision in the socket for the arm. On the other hand, the cheap alloy used for most Squiers (and lots of other makes) wears out in no time if the arm is set to a moderately tight setting, leading to all sorts of problems before eventually rejecting all attempts to retain the arm at all.

I agree that for some players, who prefer a loose fitting for the arm anyway, and who never tighten the thread to its (low) breaking point, that may indeed be of no consequence. But for those (like me) who are sensitive to mechanical backlash, it's a horror story. But one which is so easily cured by using a better-made (and even cheap) replacement with a better thread or even a tensionable push-in arrangement (á la Wilkinson).

JN

Mine isn't loose fitting,a little PTFE tape applied sees to that (as it has done on all of my Strats since the 70s) if folk are messing them up it has to be they who are responsible, mine is now in the custody of another owner, but it still works as good as any of my others, including my Eric Johnson one Stuart.

Don't forget that if the screw spacing for your new bridge is different from the original, you can always get a luthier to plug the original holes and drill new ones for you.

This unit:

http://www.axesrus.co.uk/Wilkinson-WV6-Tremolo-Steel-Block-p/wv6sb.htm

...has what Wilkinson call the "universal fit", with fixing-screw holes which are slightly elongated so as to allow for varying gaps (if it's needed, that is).

£26.50 posted... and with a steel block and push-in arm too...

JN

No one has mentioned the E to E string spacing. That is one of the crucial differences between the non US Fenders and the US Vintage ones. Just plugging the screw holes will not help. It is important that any replacement Trem has the same string spacing as the original. Then you will probably find the mounting holes are in the right place too. Fender deliberately make guitars or different origins vary slightly in size shape and spec. Even the Mex and US guitars are not fully interchangeable. You can decide the reasons for yourself. Aside from that have you checked the Trem with a magnet to see if it is steel or composite? I am inclined to agree with Robbo. The Classic Vibes are a pretty good build for the money and it's also worth considering whether a replacement Trem that is only £25 is really an improvement.
I hope this is helpful.
Howard (Oasis Music)

dave robinson wrote:Mine isn't loose fitting,a little PTFE tape applied sees to that (as it has done on all of my Strats since the 70s) if folk are messing them up it has to be they who are responsible, mine is now in the custody of another owner, but it still works as good as any of my others, including my Eric Johnson one Stuart.

If it was so good, why didn't you kept it ?

Didier